Keine Over-Dress, Human Version

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See Who Is Keine? for a broader overview. This section deals with the conceptualization of, and the construction of the over-dress for the Human form, which is (was?) the first part to work on, and forms the vast majority of the visible part of costume. It also works as a template to later make the Hakutaku over-dress, which is almost identical, with the exception of finding a tenchical solution for either attaching or passing though Keine's hakutaku tail.
Basically the over-dress looks like this:
It's actually pretty plain all in all, except for aspects of Keine's endowments.

Base Pattern

While all in all the dress is fundamentally simple, I wanted something that already had the majority of the collar detail basically in place. Yes I'll have to add the additional collar peices, but mostly there. I also wanted something with enough panels to make the construction of a simple a-line like dress bottom to it without being huge. So in the end came up with a vest pattern to start with
However there are a number of notable issues to fix with this pattern to get it workable.

Front Alterations
Basically I dont want something that opens and closes in the front. While I considered doing the zipper in the front to just make it more simple, and similar to a sailor-fuku peice I saw, all in all i think the transition from the zipper to the non-zipper will look weird in the front. I'd rather it be hidden in the back, like most women's dresses. So basically the over-lap portion of the vest needs to be removed. Additionally, Keine is a teacher. While there are some fan works that expose a lot of her breast area, to me it feels better for her clevage to be minimally exposed in general. The base line for the vest if unmodified would fall basically at the arm-pit level. While this is reasonable (and places the actual breast width markers in the front-side panels), I still feel it needs to be slightly higher than that. So the collar portion needs to be raised a bit more. However this starts eating away at the collar, so I'll over-exaggerate the collar a bit to compensate. Basically this means that pattern peice 1 (front) is going to be completely redrawn to the following shape (red is changes)...
Also on all the patterns, conveniently, about the waist is a parting line for "adding length". I'll simply attach the extension patterns there for the skirt part of the dress.

Back Alterations
While the front was open in the pattern and now closed, the back was closed and now open. Now with the addition of a hidden zipper, the pattern shouldnt need any modifications, as the seem line will now just be the zipper line fold back, and the seem allowance will not be the zipper allowance, and we're all happy. Now I will not put the zipper in until after the turnout, thus allowing the turn out to actually take place as necessary for the collar.
But the collar will also need to be bisected in the back. Luckily the pattern already comes that way, so what was a seem now becomes a seam.

Skirt Part
Really the skirt is just a very basic cone. Nothing exciting here, other than maintaining the grain and percentages down. While all the art varies on just how much of a flare there is (and most of it is all strictly for looking good in the pictures) generally for those that show the flare, the base is about 3 times the width of the waist at the knees (where I plan to end the full fabric part of the dress). This generally seems consistent with the orignal artwork (just beyond finger width). So I'll go with that for now. Based on rough calculations seems right, and will cover knees and feet while sitting in seiza pretty reasonably.

Parts Yet to Plan

Well the lining of the collar.... all of the reference works has a white border to the collar... i can think of a number of ways to do it... one I'd prefer... but I dont know about my skill, so I'll probably just get a ribbon and put it on last.
And pattern at the bottom of the dress. Unlike the arm stuff of the under-dress, I am not sure how i want to do this yet. It is really hard to really make out in the official art how this is supposed to go (it looks really random). Some art don't even have this separate, but just lines in the dress. A lot of fanwork do things to hide this part of the dress. Some have to distinct groupings, some have one with fillers, some are two in some parts and one in others. Some do it very angular, some do it very rounded. I'll decide something at some point, its just going to be fun math fun since its on a cone.

Pattern Work
Ironing of patterns. Loverly.
All the base patterns.
First skirt addition peice.
When you can't find your french curve... print one, or three....
Completed pattern part #1
Completed pattern part #2
Completed pattern part for #6 (same as 2)
Completed patetrn part for #10.

While playing with the patterns it occured to me that changing the height of the cross over with the V, will affect the second length of the upper and lower collars... sadly I dont know by how much... so for now I'm going to go as is, and wing it when i get there.

Fashion Fabric Cutting
Roll out.
Iron out.
2 full pattern 1s (both sides) FRONT
2 full pattern 10s (both sides) BACK
2 full pattern 2s (both sides) FRONT-SIDE
2 full pattern 6s (both sides) BACK-SIDE
2 half patetrn 1st (both sides) for FRONT Collar roll over.
Under collars
Over collar... alteration ... this is supposed to be 1 continuous piece, but obviously I am putting a zipper in, so needs to be unconnected, so putting in seaming allowance.
Over Collar cut.
back sash (going to keep just in case) ... it said to cut from lining, but perfer to keep it the fashion fabric.
All the fashion fabric cut. I have about 3/4 a yard left... part will be used for the collar accents... and the rest probably will somehow windup into the bottom adornments.

Lining Cutting
Collar Interfacing front
Collar Interfacing Back
Everything cut (with the exception of what ever i do for the bottom)